amelia's pleated skirt

this weekend, i finished an adorable miniature version of the diy couture pleated skirts i've been making as a gift for my god-daughter amelia. i wanted it to be sort of a complimentary piece to my pierrot/pierrette-inspired skirt - i thought it would be so cute for her to have her very own harlequin-inspired skirt and maybe at some point when i visit seattle we could do a little photo shoot together. that would be so amazing! 

making this skirt made me realize i absolutely love making children's clothes! they're so cute & tiny and it totally makes sense as i've always been drawn to making miniatures in every artistic medium i've tried. i couldn't believe how quickly this skirt whipped up after the initial dying and silk-screening process. i started out with the same fabric and used the same process as i did with my pierrot-inspired skirt but used a mixture of teal and pearl grey RIT dye to get that smokey blue/green hue.

i'm so excited to get this out in the mail to her although i think it might still be too big for her to wear. somehow, it ended up 2" bigger at the waist than i had anticipated so she might have wait until she's a bit older or maybe pin it for now. either way, this definitely isn't going to be the last piece of clothing i make for her from scratch! i usually reconstruct things for her that i find at thrift stores, adding patches or silk-screen images, or i'll collect vintage children's clothing for her but i've never made her anything like this before. i'm really excited to enter into this new chapter of making her things by hand, the most special of things. 

xoxo
☆ emilia ☆

pierrot / pierrette

today i'm finally sharing with you photos of my final pleated skirt attempt from the diy couture 'how to make a pleated skirt' instruction book. after two other attempts, i feel like i finally got this one right in terms of fabric choice, length and fit and i'm absolutely thrilled that i have had such positive experiences with the construction of these skirts! i feel a bit amazed that i was able to pull these pleated skirts off and actually come out with garments i really love.

for this skirt, i had pierrot / pierette in mind as inspiration. i have always been influenced by all things french and pierrot, in particular, has always caught my interest in his many incarnations from 'sad clown' to pantomime to musician. originally, i planned on making both a pierrot and a harlequin skirt with each symbolizing the personality & look of each of the characters (i may at some point finish the other skirt, we'll see.) i wanted them both to feature diamonds and match somewhat, but for the pierrot skirt to have a very light, soft palette in keeping with the traditional white pierrot suit and to really contrast with the bright, bold colors of the flashy harlequin skirt.

so, i went with a white bottom weight fabric - 95% cotton / 5% - medium weight, and dyed it with a mixture of pink and tan RIT dye before screen printing a series of cream triangles on it to form diamonds in different patterns for the front and back. i concentrated the diamonds in the center on the front piece and went with more of a bottom border pattern for the back. i made the waist extra thick and the length a bit longer than the other two skirts and feel like i really hit the perfect balance this time. it fits me like a glove & is very forgiving - that 5% spandex makes a really big difference in fit & comfort! i used a bit of my leftover fabric to make a 'capelet' of sorts in pretty much the same way as the skirt - basically, a pleated skirt for my shoulders - onto which i added two big black buttons for a more authentic pierrot / pierrette look.

i hope you like my pierrot / pierrette inspired skirt (the last pleated skirt i'm making for a while!) next, it's on to making cloaks using the diy couture 'how to make a cloak' instruction book. i'll be making a couple of lightweight cloaks over the next several weeks before attempting a serious fall cloak with expensive tweed or similar wool fabric and am so happy my sewing skills are slowly but steadily improving… yay! 

xoxo

☆ emilia ☆

all we are is stars

lucius and his first mustache finger : tara mcpherson

for my second pleated skirt attempt, i combined it with another diy project i've had on my "to do" list since last summer - making some sort of space garment. originally, i was planning on making a galaxy t-shirt dress but then decided it might be more fun to make some custom fabric instead. i used this "going to space" tutorial from unicorn parade almost to the letter except i didn't have any spare brushes on hand (besides tooth brushes for splattering) so i stuck to medicine droppers for applying the bleach & dye and used my gocco to screen print the stars instead of hand painting them. 

since my last skirt ended up so stiff & sculptural and was a polyester blend (and, polyester interferes with the bleaching process,) i went with a much thinner bottom weight this time made from 97% cotton/3% spandex. i cut the front and back fabric pieces out before bleaching & dying and ended up going through the entire process a few times until i was fairly happy with how it looked, and then screen printed the stars. i used strips of the untouched, crisp black fabric to make an extra-thick waistband (6cm wide instead of 4cm) and finished the hem off with black bias tape to pull it all together.

i'm really happy with how the skirt came out, especially since this was my first attempt at bleaching & dying fabric (i've never even tie-dyed.) it would have helped to have a few hubble pics of nebulae on hand for reference on the larger shapes but i didn't think about doing this until the very end. one thing is discovered is that bias tape is pretty much my new favorite thing EVER as straight & decent-looking hems continue to pose a major challenge for this beginner seamstress. overall, i'm completely smitten this skirt & the adorable little stars - it's incredibly lightweight but still stiff enough to keep its sweet silhouette and i love the polished look of the bias tape!

xoxo

☆ c. emilia ☆

*outfit details: vintage lace half shirt/wedding dress top // pleated skirt pattern - diy couture // black lita - jeffrey campbell // rings - forever 21, ebay 

first pleated skirt!

i am sooo excited to share with you my first hand-sewn garment ever - a two-toned, hand-silk screened pleated skirt created from diy couture's easy-to-follow instructional book how to make a pleated skirt. 

the skirt is made from two pieces of fairly thick bottom weight fabric (65% cotton / 35% poly) in gray and electric blue that were sewn together. i used my gocco to screen print the blue fabric with a super cute friends with you inspired pattern before sewing. the stiff fabric and pleats kept reminding me of cheerleading skirts and seeing as friends with you is in the business of spreading friendship and joy, i thought the name "good cheer" fit this skirt perfectly! 

i followed the book's directions to the letter, making 12 pleats in the front, 12 in the back and a 4cm waistband. it was really tough working with this thick bottom weight on my first try, especially since it's 35% polyester - it was really difficult setting the pleats and the overall shape is very sculptural... it sort of has a mind of its own. while i loved the stiffness of this bottom weight during the printing process, i made sure to pick a much thinner, mostly cotton version for my second skirt. 

overall, i'm crazy thrilled with how it came out and *love* it to pieces. i'm still in total disbelief that i'm actually making my own clothes and have to keep reminding myself - it just seems too good to be true! but, it's not - it is true - and, it's all thanks to diy couture who demystified the process and made it simple enough for me to take the plunge. what i found out in the end was that making this pleated skirt was easier than a lot of other non-garment projects i've made in the past. when explained in an easy-to-follow format that's aimed at the beginner, you'll be stunned and how quick and easy making your own clothes can be!

xoxo

☆ c. emilia ☆

*outfit details: vintage purple striped ruffle jacket // black tank top - james perse // pleated skirt pattern - diy couture // black lita - jeffrey campbell // vintage clutch // rings - forever 21 // large gold hoops - ebay // vintage black doll's hat